How to Choose Solar Panels for a Power Station

Let me tell you a secret: choosing solar panels isn't rocket science. But it can feel like it. I've spent years navigating the wild world of solar power and am here to give you a no-BS guide to choose solar panels for your portable power station.

Whether you're prepping for the next apocalyptic power outage, planning an epic off-grid camping adventure, or just trying to keep your devices charged during a weekend in the wilderness, selecting the right solar panels for your power station comes down to three key aspects:

Calculating Your Power Needs: How many watts do you need?
Understanding Solar Panel Technologies: What makes a great solar panel?
Avoiding Damage to Your Power Station: What do your solar input specs mean?

This article provides a brief overview over these three steps. See this page for links to all three steps of choosing solar panels.

Calculating Your Solar Power Needs: Watts, Usage, and Charging Times

Think of calculating the number of panels you need like packing for a trip. You don't want to be caught short, but you also don't want to lug around unnecessary weight. The key is finding that sweet spot for the number of solar panels that keeps your devices running without wasting money by exceeding your needs.

Watts vs. Watt-Hours Explained

Solar power starts with understanding two critical measurements: watts and watt-hours. Think of watts like the speed of energy, and watt-hours as the total distance traveled.

Watts (W): Measures instant power transfer rate that’s generated (or used)
Watt-Hours (Wh): Total of energy generated (or used) over time

Solar Panel Wattage

Each solar panel is rated in watts (W). This is the amount of power it can generate at one time. When you leave a solar panel in sunlight for a certain amount of time, it will create a certain amount of watt-hours (Wh).

The more panels you have, the higher wattage your solar system will be. And the more watt-hours it will generate each day.

Pro tip: Real-world solar isn't perfect. Expect 70-80% of theoretical maximum due to angle, temperature, and other environmental factors.

For example, a 100W solar panel typically generates about 300 to 500 Wh per day. This assumes about 4 to 6 hours of peak sunlight and about 20% inefficiencies.

Device Power Usage

Your devices have similar ratings. Each one will use a certain amount of watts at one time. And when you measure how much energy it uses over time, that will be a certain number of watt-hours.

Here are some examples of common devices and the energy they use:

Phone: Chargers uses 5W to 10W; Battery holds about 10Wh to 15Wh
Laptop: Charger uses 50W to 150W; Battery holds about 50Wh to 100Wh
LED Light: Uses about 10W per bulb; Consumes about 40Wh in 4 hours (10W x 4 hours)
Portable Fridge: Uses about 30W to 50W; Consumes about 300Wh to 500Wh per day

Matching Solar Panels to Your Needs

Now you have the basics for measuring how much energy you use and how much energy solar panels can create. Once you match those two figures, you’ll know how many solar panels you need.

List the expected watt-hours for each device you want to power
Total the watt-hours across all devices to find your daily energy needs
Divide by 4 to 6 peak sunlight hours
Add 20% buffer for solar panel inefficiencies

This shows you how many solar panels you need to generate your total energy needs per day.

However, this is cutting things close. On days without sun, you might not have enough power. That’s why it’s better to have more solar panels and a larger battery than your daily needs.

Read more about calculating how many solar panels you need.

Solar Panel Technology: Types, Efficiency, and Performance

When I first dove into the world of solar panels and technology, I was shocked to discover how much variation exists. They all look so similar and simple. But you’ll find some personality hidden under each tiny power factory’s black facade.

Rigid vs. Portable Panels

The first big decision is whether to go with portable solar panels or rigid ones. It’s like picking between a backpack and a suitcase:

Portable Panels: Lightweight, foldable, and easy to move. But not as durable or long lasting.
Rigid Panels: Sturdy, durable, and designed for more permanent installations.

Portable panels offer unbeatable convenience for on-the-go power. Whenever possible, it’s usually better to use rigid panels due to the lower cost and superior durability. You can even use rigid panels in semi-permanent setups that can be moved in and out of storage as needed.

There’s another category: flexible panels. They’re a rigid panel alternative with some benefits. They can match curved surfaces, often utilize CIGS technology good for partial shade, and have a low profile and lightweight design.

Bifacial Panels

Want to increase your power potential? Bifacial panels capture sunlight from the front and back, which can increase power generation anywhere from about 5% up to 30% more than typical panels.

They’re ideal for ground installations with reflective surfaces like light-colored gravel or even snow where they can generate upwards of 20% more power. On dark surfaces, the power gain will be a fairly minimal 5%.

Monocrystalline vs. Polycrystalline

While polycrystalline panels are cheaper, monocrystalline panels are more efficient and last longer. Unless budget is a major concern, monocrystalline panels are almost always worth it.

You’ll likely notice solar panels today have about 20% efficiency and utilize monocrystalline technology. Polycrystalline panels usually have efficiencies of 15% or less.

Flexible CIGS Panels

CIGS panels (Copper, Indium, Gallium, Selenide) shine as the most flexible and lightweight option. On top of that, they handle partial shading well. They’re a great choice for curved surfaces like boats or RVs with curved roofs.

Pro tip: Don't get hung up on marginal differences. A solid 20% efficient panel will transform your portable power game, turning those off-grid dreams into plug-and-play reality.

Read more about selecting the right type of solar panel.

Sizing Your Solar System: Matching Panels to Power Station Capabilities

Having the right solar panels for your power station is like having the right instrument. To get your energy system to function best, you’ll want to make sure those instruments are in sync with your power station. It’s an art form I’ve spent years mastering and can quickly walk you through.

To create a functional solar power system, you’ll need to understand your power station’s input specs, wiring configurations, and system limits.

Understanding Solar Input Specifications

Your power station is like a hungry battery with very specific dietary requirements. It can only handle so much input. And feeding it the wrong way can lead to serious indigestion, or in solar terms, potential damage.

You can avoid damaging your power station by following a few basic rules.

Every power station has solar input specifications. Marketing materials will show the maximum wattage, but there’s more to the story:

Maximum Voltage (V): A limit you can never exceed without risking serious damage
Maximum Current (A): The limit your power station will absorb but you can consider exceeding by overpaneling

Series and Parallel Connections

When you have more than one solar panel, the way you connect them together impacts the energy output.

Series Connection: Increases voltage while keeping the current the same. Made by connecting the positive of one panel to the negative of another panel.
Parallel Connection: Increases current while keeping the voltage the same. Made by using special splitters (2-to-1, 3-to-1, etc.) to connect all positive/negative connections in one spot.

A quick rule of thumb: Series adds voltage, parallel adds current.

SEE OUR PARALLEL CONNECTOR PRODUCT LISTINGS.

Solar Panel Ratings: Max Voltage and Current

To protect your power station from damage, check the specifications of your solar panel s. You’re mostly concerned with the open circuit voltage (Voc) and the short circuit current (Isc). These are the two maximum figures (voltage and current) you should ever see off the panels.

When you connect two panels in series, you’ll add the Voc of both panels and use the lowest Isc.

When you connect panels in parallel, you’ll add the Isc and use the lowest Voc of the panels.

Voltage Increase Due to Temperature

There’s one other hidden secret you must account for. When temperatures get colder, the voltage coming off your solar panels will increase. The colder the weather, the higher the voltage can climb.

Here’s a brief look at a rough idea of how voltage increases as temperature decreases:

60°F (15°C), 5% higher voltage
32°F (0°C), 10% higher voltage
0°F (-18°C), 20% higher voltage

By accounting for this increased voltage, you can avoid going over the maximum voltage of your power station’s solar input.

Overpaneling Considerations

Overpaneling means connecting more solar wattage than your power station’s max input - by exceeding the current (amp) limit. Many experts agree it is acceptable to use overpaneling strategies, as long as you stay under the voltage limit.

Why do this? In less-than-perfect conditions (clouds, shade, early morning), extra panels help provide faster charging speeds. If you can reach the power station's maximum input speed earlier and later in the day, you'll be able to capture more energy.

With the right configuration, you can build a solar setup that’s safe, efficient, and perfectly tailored to your power station’s needs.

Read more about understanding solar panel output.

More Information

This guide has touched on nearly everything you need to figure out how to choose solar panels for a power station. But we understand it can be a lot to take in. And that’s why we’ve continued this knowledge base with more detailed information on the three most important sections:

Once you have selected the panels and how many you’ll use, it’s time to move on to the second phase: How to Connect Solar Panels to Your Portable Power Station.

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